https://csim.in/conversations/CSIM_Conversations_August-2010.pdf

As the evening progressed, the canvas looked busier. At dusk, the beach was abuzz with people of various denominations. They came in cars, on bikes, and some even on foot. They came to walk, talk, play – and eat.

The hawkers had kept pace. Since late afternoon they had been busy setting up their carts, mats, makeshift tables – or bicycles – along the main beach road and in the byways. The first ‘shop’ to catch our attention was a cluster of pink and orange candy floss that clung to a wooden pole plugged in the sand. The ‘shop owner’ reluctantly agreed to a brief chat. Nagendran Latoori, all of 16, told us that he hailed from a village near Aligarh, Uttar Pradesh and had four siblings. After his father’s death, he came to Chennai along with a fellow villager to earn for the family.

Nagendran said: “It has been a year since I came to Chennai, and I earn 2,000 rupees every month. Whatever I manage to save, I give it to my family when I visit them during Raksha Bandhan (a Hindu festival which celebrates the bond between brothers and sisters). I eat two packets of candy when I am hungry. At the end of each day, I hand over the sales amount and the unsold packets to my owner. These unsold packets are traded to hotels that use the candy to make samosa chutney. Fresh candy is made every day.”

During weekends Nagendran manages sales worth Rs 1500 . On other days, he only makes 150 to 300 rupees a day. “I need to earn for my family as there is no one else who can support them. In the morning, I sell candy in residential areas. I do not find it difficult to walk all day long, it has become a habit. Today, I have made a sale of Rs 300 so far.”

Across the road was Murugan setting up his masala pori— spicy puffed rice—stall. The cart was decorated with sliced mangoes and tomatoes, and Murugan was eagerly waiting for his customers to arrive. With puffed rice, groundnut, onions, cabbage, tomatoes, and mangoes, Murugan was quick to make a snack within less than a minute. He was attentive to customers who needed more spice, and served each one with a smile. “My wife cuts the vegetables while at home, and I manage the stall here. I have three children aged 10, 8, and 6 years, who study in the nearby corporation school. They visit the stall during their holidays, and like the masala pori that I make. They also enjoy buying ice-creams and bajjis from the nearby stalls,” said Murugan.

Murugan earns around Rs 200 on weekdays and Rs 500 during weekends. “It has been ten years since I set up this stall. When I started, I used to sell a pack of masala pori for five rupees. Now the same pack is sold at 15.” 

Kaliammal is the most experienced hawker here, and has been running her bajji stall for over 24 years! Her husband, who was working in a hotel in Madurai, decided to move to Chennai and set up a bajji stall to earn their livelihood. “We did not know any other trade. My husband is a good cook, and so we thought that this would be ideal for us. We now earn 200 rupees a day and much more during weekends,” said Kaliammal.

Kaliammal relocated to Semmencherry after her house was severely damaged by the tsunami in 2004. Now, she spends two hours a day commuting to the beach to earn a living. Her son Sarath studies in a school at Royapettah and lives with his uncle, while her daughter remains at home. “I help my husband by cutting vegetables, cleaning vessels, and also attending to customers. We use refined oil, and ensure that the food quality is good,” said Kaliammal. 

While each hawker was busy managing their stall, Anjala was walking with a vessel that was half-filled with sundal—a spicy South Indian snack made out of legumes. “I fell from the share auto and dropped more than half of the snack that I brought to sell today,” she told us matter-of-factly. “I invest 50 rupees for one kilo of sundal and earn 25 as profit. I do not come here every day. It is only when I need the extra money that I come,” said Anjala.

Anjala worked as a domestic help to raise her children, but had to quit due to poor health. After she lost her husband, her two sons disowned her. Now, she lives with her daughter who works as a staff nurse in a hospital in Adyar. “The money I earn out of selling sundal helps me to buy sweets and gifts for my grandchildren. They are the ones who make me happy, and give me company when I am at home. I feel that I need to do something in return for them.” 

A group of children drew our attention to a rather creative balloon stand. One such notable balloon was heart-shaped and had two smaller balloons shaped like crows stuck on it. Kandan, 28, was busy blowing the balloons with his mouth and attending to his customers. One could hardly notice that his left arm was defunct. “I forgot to bring the pump today. Else, it would have been easier for me,” said Kandan.

Kandan has studied up to high school, and could not seek employment due to his disability. He is married and has a nine-month-old daughter. “People mocked me, asking me what work I could do with one hand. I tried to work as a construction laborer but found it very difficult. I then decided to sell balloons. I now earn around 300 rupees a day, and during weekends earn up to 500. I am happy being a balloon seller as I make enough money to sustain my family. Moreover, I need not work for anyone else,” said Kandan confidently.

Saravanan was frying groundnuts, a popular favorite, and attracted customers to his stall with the clanging noise he made from his ladle. “I sell 10 kilos of groundnuts daily. I am paid 2,000 a month, and I need to return the cart and the unsold groundnuts to my owner before 10:30 p.m. each day.”

Saravanan moved to Chennai eight years ago. His family stays in Sattavaram, a village in Villupuram District. “Whenever I see people coming to the beach in a car, I realize that I should have taken my studies more seriously. I would have earned a decent income from a secure job, bought my own car, and come to the beach to relax instead of standing here each day frying groundnuts,” said Saravanan, regretting that he stopped studying after Class VII.

During monsoons the hawkers find it difficult to commute, and there are days when they do not have a single customer.  “I am planning to visit my family next month when we have the temple festival.  Spending time with my family, and sharing my little savings with them, gives me the satisfaction of having worked all day long at the beach,” concluded Saravanan.

A little further away on the seashore was Rajeshwari making hot bajjis. Her customers were mostly women and children who were living in the slum tenements nearby. “I married my uncle and we had a petty shop in our home town where we sold fruits. The earnings were not sufficient to meet our family needs. We therefore moved to Chennai four months ago and set up this bajji stall,” said Rajeshwari.    

Rajeshwari manages to earn a profit of 100 rupees a day. Her husband,  a vegetable vendor, assists her in cutting vegetables and purchasing rations. “Although my husband earns 200 rupees a day, he spends 120 rupees to buy liquor. After paying our rent, we have hardly any money left to meet our domestic needs. I have left behind my one-year-old son with my mother as I am expecting another child in August. We are now thinking of returning to our hometown,” said Rajeshwari.

Children were crowding around Azeem Sheikh’s soan papdi —a crispy Indian sweet—stall. Azeem, 42, has been engaged in selling soan papdi for the last 15 years. “With sugar and maida, I make the soanpapdi at my home with the help of a machine. My father has been selling soanpapdi for over 40 years in Chennai, and I was involved in this trade since I was young. My wife and two children live in Latur. I visit them once in three or four months. I send a money order of 2,000 to 2,500 rupees to my wife Shameem every month. Earlier, I used to earn only 50 rupees a day. Now, I earn 100 to 150 rupees a day,” said Azeem .

As the night close in, people began to disperse although they wished to stay much longer. But, the hawkers, remained in anticipation that their customers will visiting their stall yet again.